one final update from this past year, and then i promise i have more recent news for you
all!!
after three weeks in turkey and greece with some fantastic
friends, i made my way back to paris at the beginning of may to intercept my
final two visitors – my mom and aunt!! we had planned a sort of dual-purpose
mother’s day trip, splitting my final two weeks in europe between france and
ireland. it worked out perfectly, because i needed to get back to dublin for my
flight home anyway, and they both had dreamed for years of visiting ireland.
but first, we had to get the bags i had left in excideuil, and of course i had
to show them around paris!
we rented a little airbnb apartment near the gare du nord in
paris, and used it as a home base for a whirlwind two days in the city of
lights. in order to hit the ground running and beat the jet lag, i pretty much dragged
them all over the city on their first day. they were total troopers, humouring
me as i offered sight after sight, in an effort to keep them awake until a
reasonable hour. we finally hit the wall around 4pm at the musée d’orsay, and
we headed back for a light dinner and early bedtime. we even saw the eiffel
tower twinkling in the distance from our apartment window. :) the next day was
our only full day in the city, and we made it seriously full. i like to walk
when i travel, so we covered a good bit of ground – shopping in montmartre,
strolling along the champs elysees, treating ourselves to a nice dinner near
the arc de triomphe, and then ending with a trip up to the middle level of the
eiffel tower. if you’re going to visit paris for only a day or two, that’s the
way to do it! see the sights, get a taste for the local neighborhood flair, and
soak up the atmosphere. a wonderful visit!
in order to get back down to excideuil with all our
belongings, we decided to forgo the train and just rent a car. thanks to the
mobility inherent in controlling your own methods of transportation, we even
got to make a pitstop at versailles on the way south! i had already visited a
few times, but neither my mom nor my aunt had ever seen it. we kind of breezed
through the palace (it was majorly crowded, and difficult to enjoy) and then
took the little palace train out to marie antoinette’s hamlet. back when the
palace was still a royal residence, the then-queen had a little faux village
constructed on the grounds, so she could go play peasant whenever the fancy
struck her. it makes sense when you think that this was the woman who, upon
hearing that the people of her country had no bread to eat, responded with “let
them eat cake!”… still, though, the hamlet was so beautiful and charming and
cool. definitely my favourite part of versailles. despite the pouring rain as
we were leaving, and my inability to determine the proper route to take in the
car, we finally got on the road to excideuil after lunch.
it was so strange to be back in my little village with my family.
after the hustle and bustle of paris, it was such a relaxing few days, despite
all of the tasks i needed to accomplish before leaving. it was great to see my
friends again, and i was happy to have a chance to say goodbye to everyone
officially, but my favourite part was getting to show my mom and aunt the area.
we took advantage of having the rental car to go a bit further afield, checking
out the chateau de hautefort and a few antique shops in the area. thanks to the
generosity of one of my colleagues, we got to stay in a beautiful guest house
just outside of town, and we were invited to eat with the family two of the
three nights we were there. heaaaven! i never got over how kind and generous
everyone was in excideuil – it’s one of the best aspects of living in the
countryside. i was sad to leave, but the next step was so enticing that i
couldn’t help but be excited as well!
on mother’s day, we loaded up the car for a relatively short
drive to bordeaux, returned the rental car at the airport and finally made our
way to dublin! it was so great to be able to accompany my mom and aunt to such
a meaningful place. the first few days of our trip were spent in the city,
exploring and shopping and just generally enjoying the atmosphere. we ate at
several excellent pubs (including a touristy one in temple bar, but i love it
anyway), saw the sights, and i tried to give them a sense for why i love
ireland so much. truly, though, you have to get out of the city to really
understand… so the second half of our trip was a four day tour of the country!
we rented a car (with only a few hiccups to start the adventure) and headed
west. our first stop was the true homeland – county mayo, where my maternal
great-great-grandmother, delia, was born. after several more children were born,
the family emigrated to the united states in the 1860s. my mom has done so much research over the years, delving
into records of births, baptisms, marriages, immigration, deaths… you name it.
all her work paid off, though, when we finally arrived in the teeny parish of
islandeady and got to browse the church’s documents. we found the original,
handwritten record of delia’s baptism, signed by her parents, william and anne.
we enjoyed a stroll through the parish cemetery and a lovely night in a b&b
nearby. the next day, we hopped back in the car for the drive down through
country galway to county clare. we stopped to check out the cliffs of moher,
which were soon covered in the thickest white fog i have ever seen, and then
made our way to ennis. one of the best moments of our trip for me was getting
to introduce my mom and aunt to my dear friend shane’s parents. they only live
half an hour from ennis, so they kindly agreed to make the drive in for a few
pints with us in town! it was so fun to spend time together, chatting away in a
cheery local pub.
the following day was simultaneously the best and most
stressful day of our trip, in my opinion. we made the drive down to blarney
castle without a hitch, and enjoyed a marvelous afternoon exploring the
gardens, visiting the castle, and even kissing that stone. which, in actuality,
is part of the wall just under the battlements, requiring you to lean backwards
and several feet down to reach it. thank goodness for the guy who holds you
while you make the effort! we left blarney in time to head into cork for a late
lunch and a walk around town. the stress came later, when we decided to get as
much driving as possible out of the way that evening, in order to lessen the
road time back to dublin the following day. we made it all the way from cork to
waterford, hoping to find a nice b&b to stay in for our last country
evening. waterford proved to be too urban, so we ventured past the city and
towards the coast… not wanting to settle for something just because it was
there, we kept driving until it was nearly dark. we were starting to get a
little nervous, because eventually there was nothing around us… so we stopped
to ask two ladies out walking, and they pointed us down the road to the haven
hotel. and truly, it lived up to its name. one of the most beautiful country
manor homes i’ve seen, and the staff was absolutely delightful. we arrived just
around 9pm, and they happily offered to feed us a full meal. the whole building
was splendidly decorated, and our room was so charming… we couldn’t have asked
for better. we passed our final night on the road in high spirits, praising the
irish luck that brought us to such a fabulous spot.
the last few days in ireland were spent winding down – my
mom and aunt from their two week trip, and me from my 9 month one! we drove
back up to dublin, stopping in a few villages along the way, and ended up at
the airport hotel. the following morning, we drove into the city, returned the
car, and spent the day visiting the guinness storehouse and having one last pub
dinner. it was a great way for me to officially say goodbye to europe – one
last pint! i did get one bonus day with my friend shane, after seeing mom and
aunt sandy off to the airport. we spent the day just hanging out and enjoying
the company. it was a nice bookend to my trip, because shane was the one who
picked me up at the airport back in september, and he also came with me as i
left. he truly is a precious friend! it was hard to leave such an amazing year
behind... and that finally wraps up the blog posts! if you want to see pictures
from our trip together, you can check out the album here. :)